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February 8th to February 20th, 2003. A trip encompassing everything from Amoebas to Whales, from feathers to weights, from tea to Long Island Ice Teas, from two hour massages to sunburn, from the gourmet to the inedible, from showings of man in his utmost social abilities to his down right lack of consideration, from a la carte to all inclusive, from the south side of the bay to the north side of the bay, from police courtesy to police bribery, from dinner theater to fast food, and from pure bliss to utter frustration. It was a good trip. The 4:00 a.m. limo pic-up from our home got us to the airport to fly Continental, from N.Y., via Houston, to PV. The trip there was uneventful (the best kind) though our interest was piqued at the Houston duty free when we saw some "hi-test" Kahlua (70 Proof) we had not come accross before. We passed on it at the duty free, thinking that we would find some in PV. The Bital Bank was open at the airport when we arrived, but we had some pesos with us from our last trip, so didn’t exchange money when we first arrived in PV. We navigated through the throngs of transportation people and headed directly to the Dollar Car Rental counter to get out pre-reserved car. Because it was February, and the cooler/dryer part of the year - we had reserved a NON-Air conditioned manual tranny economy car. I expected a Nissan Tsurus, but was pleasantly surprised when we saw that we had a NEW (1993) VW Bug - with less than 2000 kilometers on the odometer. The cost of the car for a week was $97.00, plus the mandatory liability insurance and tax. I declined the collision damage waiver because I rented the car with an Amex gold card. We don’t pack lightly (though always vow to do so "next time") , but still managed to fit our two large suitcases, three carry-on sized pieces, and dress pack into the back seat of the VW Bug. In no time at all we were "off" to the first hotel accommodations. The "plan" was to stay the first five nights south of PV at the Costa Vida Vallarta resort, and the following seven nights at Viva Vallarta all inclusive resort near Punta Mita (Pictures of Viva Vallarta can be found here: http://www.lilaw.info/viva_vallarta1.htm The first five nights were a timeshare trade, the last seven nights were purchased at Viva Vallarta in a package that included the air. This was to be our first time at Costa Vida Vallarta, and our first stay of any duration at Viva Vallarta (we had stayed there for one night in November, 2002 to get a feel for the resort). Pictures of Costa Vida Vallarta can be found here: http://www.lilaw.info/costa_vida_vallarta.htm The usual timeshare check-in day at Costa Vida Vallarta was a Thursday, we were arriving for the third night of the seven night’s of the accommodations. We subconsiously felt that the "best" rooms would have already been taken by people who had arrived on Thursday or Friday. This may or may not have been accurate. Upon check-in we were told that there were only two available units, 1107 and 1108. We looked at them both and chose 1108. Our initial impression of the room was not good - but our dismay over the slightly worn look of the place was soon replaced by our appreciation of the hominess of the resort. We were in a "Studio" consisting of a small kitchen (gas stove, microwave, full sized refrigerator, sink, wooden cabinets) ; bathroom with a very large shower (no tub); queen sized bed; pull out couch; tv; A/C; two medium sized closets; a decent sized safe; and sliding glass doors leading to a very small porch. The view from the room was magnificant - as we had a direct "full frontal" view of the bay . To our left we saw Los Arcos, to the right was downtown PV, and further ahead to the right we could clearly make out Nuevo Vallarta. The sunsets were great and the reflection of the moon led directly to our deck from the bay. The sound of the waves were always present, and lulled us to sleep every night . Even on the eleventh floor, with the doors shut, the waves were loud and clear. The guests were a mixed bag, but there were very few (actually I saw none) children there, which made for a quiet stay. We stood on the porch and looked down - and had a little bit of a shock. The first floor rooms have a large walled in porch, which provides some privacy from those on the same level , but none to those looking down from above. We looked down directly at the nude butt of a middle aged woman. She was in the oddest position, on a lounge face down with her head down, but her butt high in the air. It looked as if she was trying to get some color somewhere where the sun usually didn’t shine. We didn’t butt stare for very long — as soon as we realized what the heck we were looking at - we shut our mouths and withdrew to our room. Incidently, this was the only "butt viewing" we came across during our stay there. It was now about 4:00 P.M. and we had to make some time, as we had reservations to attend a fund raising dinner event for the "Make a Wish" foundation (see: http://www.makeawishmexico.org ) . The dinner event started at 6:00 p.m. and was held in the courtyard of an older hotel ( Hotel Estancia San Carlos ) around the pool, downtown a few blocks from the Ocean. We took showers, donned some slightly upscale clothing, and drove into old town for the event. The buffett barbeque food was plentiful and varied, and the event was well worth the fee of $15.00 a person to attend. After we left the event we headed off to do some basic food shopping and chose Commercial Mexicana downtown. When we came out to the car it would not start. It cranked and cranked, but the engine did not even sound like it was trying to catch. The new 2003 model VW bugs have an anti-theft device which requires a short round plastic thing to be rubbed on the ignition lock before inserting the key. If this is not done the car will not start. We tried every possible rubbing motion we could think of, but got nowhere. Frankly I was really surprised that we did not run down the battery. After about 20 minutes (we were very glad we had not purchased any frozen food) I went into the small shopping area under Commercial Mexicana and paid the computer store 50 cents to use their phone to call Dollar car rental. They explained that I was probably not rubbing the ignition lock properly - and I returned to the car and tried their various suggestions — nothing worked. I put in a second call to Dollar car rental asking for assistance. They sent someone right over and he was there in about 15 minutes. He explained that I had to be more "aggressio" with the rubbing of the ignition lock — and this did make a difference - the car started !! He said that we could take the car he had brought instead of keeping the one that we had — but we decided to keep the original car. As the week progressed I came to realize that for some reason the car would not start the first time the ignition key was turned — no matter what . The procedure I followed was to get in the car and turn the key for about 2 seconds, then withdraw the key and aggressively rub the ignition lock with the plastic "baton" on the key chain, then re-insert the key and start the car. For some reason this proceedure worked every time. We headed back to Costa Vida Vallarta and had a good night’s sleep. The next morning I went down to the pool for coffee to go and charged it to my room. After I told them that I was in room 1108 — they told me that no one was in that room . I showed them the key - and they got themselves straightened out, but it took a few minutes. We had breakfast there twice during our stay; the food was good and the meals were memorable. One of the nicer features of Costa Vida was that they had a computer area for the guests to use with no fee, and a total of four recent vintage Compaq computers available for use. The computers were used almost constantly by the guests, with a 15 minute time limit. Cable service has not reached as far south as Costa Vida Vallarta yet — so the connection was fairly slow. I found that in the early morning (when perhaps not too many people were logged on ) I was able to get on line and use AOL as well as various search engines, but after about 8:00 a.m. the internet got very very slow and it was usually impossible to log onto AOL. The gym is adjacent to the computer room. The multistation weight machine there is not impressive. It looks almost home made, and indicates that it was made in Guadalajara. The construction and design is crude compared to equipment typically found in a U.S. gym. In addition to a crude (woobly and made with auto shock absorbers) stair stepper and a treadmill, they have one set of free dumbells which are basically useless as the maximum weight was 8 pounds. Let’s see now, we are up to Sunday morning. I had been planning a small whale excursion and had tried to drum up some interest in the trip on the AOL PV travel board. When we departed for PV there were a total of five people who had indicated they would participate in the excursion. The cost was to be $220.00 total for the boat and crew for the day, with $12.00 per person to cover lunch and all on-board beverages (for lunch we were to stop at a beach side restaurant - beverages there would cost extra). When I checked e-mail on Sunday morning, I found that two of the people who were to go on the excursion with us could not make it. What to do, what to do ?? I didn’t want a large group of people, but I felt that : 1) a few more people (aside from my wife and I, and the third person — Sue) would be nice and also that 2) I wanted others to be able to take advantage of the excursion. I had noticed a "owner’s bulletin board" near the 1st floor elevator at Costa Vida Vallarta, and figured I had nothing to lose by posting a note there. I took a plain piece of white paper and hand wrote a note in simple ball point with the header: "Do You Want To See Some Whales ?" followed by a description of the trip that was planned, costs involved, and the room I was staying in. The response was pretty impressive. Inside of an hour I had received two phone calls, and had two or three notes slipped under our door. I communicated with the people interesting in attending by slipping notes under their doors. Between Sunday afternoon and Monday night I made at least five "runs" through various parts of the resort slipping little notes under doors in response to the various inquires we received. Jackie went down to the pool for awhile to sun and read, and I went to the gym, then took a ride further south a few miles to the Bungee Jump to visit with my friend Federico. We had met Federico (a Mexican citizen ) and his wife Kirsten (a U.S. citizen) several years ago when we were on vacation and participated in one of his off road tours through his company, "Raptor Tours" ( SEE: http://www.vallarta-action.com ) . Come to think of it, Kirsten met Federico when she went Bungee Jumping while on vacation. Federico is actually a Doctor, who has chosen to make a living doing things that he considers to be "fun," which explains the off-road trips and the Bungee Jump. Having experienced, first hand, the three largest off road tour’s in PV , we can say that Raptor Tours tops the bunch for a fun, safe trip on good equipment, with a knowledgeable leader (Federico leads his own groups). Everytime I visit with Federico he had always made some modification in his cars to make them more reliable or to ride better. This time was no exception and he showed me some new "ultra heavy duty" shocks that he had just managed to fit on his cars, and were still in the evaluation stage. So far he was very happy with them. Before making the trip to PV we had asked Kirsten to pick us up some tickets to Monday night’s (2/10/03) dinner theatre performance of "Move Over Mrs. Markham" which was being held at the Santa Barbara restaurant in old town. Kirsten had gotten some great seats, and they were planning to attend the dinner theatre with us. I confirmed the time that we would meet and headed back to the hotel. It was now early Sunday afternoon, 2/9/03, and it was time for Jackie and I to get ready to attend the Fiesta Blanca fund raiser being held at the Agua Molina Hotel downtown. The purpose of the fund raiser was to raise money to supply medicine for AIDS patients in PV. The cost was $50.00 a person and included dancing to live music, food, and open bar from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. . The event was catered by some of the better known restaurants in PV . The event included a silent auction for art works, jewelry, weekend getaways, and gift certificates for various restaurants in PV. The event was well attended (pictures are here: http://www.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/image/list/3894/ ) and everyone did wear all white !!! We ate, drank, and danced our money’s worth, and participated in the silent auction (in which we were the high bidders on a quartz/silver bracelet).l It was a very friendly crowd and we conversed with several people about PV and life in general. One of one of the people we spoke with for some time was Rita who owns "Casa Amorita" ( see: http://www.casaamorita.com/ ) and was one of the contributors to the gifts being auctioned in the silent auction. Some of the restaurants represented were Garibaldis (the Westin), Pie in the Sky, Archie’s Wok, The River Cafe, Le Petite France, and Bianci. After the event we went back to Costa Vida Vallarta, went down to the bar and participated in some Karioke for an hour or two before retiring for the night. We woke on Monday to another beautiful day. Jackie headed for the pool and I went to 1) call home and pick-up messages/return phone calls, 2) have breakfast, and 3) visit the marina to meet the Capt. of the Simbad for the next day’s whale event, acquaint myself with the area, and pick a meeting spot for the next day. When I arrived in P.V. I had been very glad to see that phone rates to call the U.S. had decreased dramatically. The cost was now 5 pesos (less than fifty cents) per minute. In the past they had been about a dollar a minute. I found out during the vacation that prices had dropped on both types of phone cards that one can buy down there, AND on the rate per minute of the rechargeable sprint phone card that I had purchased from COSTCO here in the States. The Ladatel phone card was the cheapest to use; but I found the sprint phone card the most convenient to use. The MCC phone card appeared to give you more minutes for the buck (or peso) but I found that every time I used it 2 - 3 mintues disappeared that were not accounted for; perhaps this was because I was making calls using the MCC card from a ladatel phone ? The advantage of the sprint card is that you can "load it" with lots of money, therefore you do not have to worry about the time running out while you are on the phone. I started with enough money on that card to talk for nearly three hours, and still have enough on it to call the U.S. from Mexico and talk for over 80 minutes. The highest denomination Ladatel card I found was 200 pesos ( enough to talk for 40 mintues); and if you carry more than one ladatel card - you can swap out an old card for a new card when the phone warns you that you are running out of time so that you do not get disconnected. So, anyway, it was Monday and my wife was at the pool reading and I was hungry. I decided to see what the new "VIP" restaurant in front of Walmarts was like; it was convenient as it was not far from the marina where I had to go to meet the Captain of the boat for Tuesday’s charter. I found the atmosphere at VIP’s to be similar to a "Howard Johnson’s" (remember those ?) or a large diner. I had an order of pancakes with a glass of milk (they did not have skim milk so I settled for whole milk) . The cost of a meal there was more than a similar meal would have been at Costa Vida Vallarta. After the meal I drove into the parking lot at the commercial marina (not to be confused with the Marina near the Westin). The lot charges 8 pesos an hour to park, though there is a maximum fee for parking. We had chartered a Trimarin sailboat called "Simbad" which is one of several boats chartered by a company called VIAJES VIVA TOURS. Their website is: http://www.vivatours-vallarta.com/simbad.htm . Their main office is located in the round building there at the marina. The purpose of my trip there on Monday was really to build my own confidence that in fact we were dealing with a reputable company and that we would not be "stood up" the next morning. I also wanted them to know that they were not dealing with a person who would stand them up either. After seeing the office and meeting the staff of Viva Tours I was confident that we had chosen a "good" service provider for the whale trip and told them that we would be there in the morning. I wanted to see the boat, but it was up in Nuevo Vallarta and I was told it would be brought down in the morning. I left the marina and went over to Walmart, where I was able to buy $200.00 peso phone cards at the travel window at the front of the store. After that I headed back to the hotel, used the gym, and got ready to meet Federico and Kirsten for the evening dinner theater reservations at Santa Barbara to see "Move Over Mrs. Markham." A few pictures taken there can be found here: http://www.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/image/list/3917 The choices for dinner were chicken, fish or steak, beverages were not included. The meal, though not a culinary delight, was satisfactory. The play was very entertaining and made the whole evening worth the time and money. After the play we parted ways with Federico and Kirsten, and headed back to the Costa Vida where we had a few drinks, sang a few Karioke songs, and responded to final notes from other whale excursion participants. O.K. — Tuesday morning — we looked out the window and at first the sky seemed overcast, but 1/2 an hour later we breathed a sigh of relief when the sun started peeking through the clouds. The plan was that we would all meet in the lobby at 9:00 a.m. (I had only met one couple out of the nine people we were meeting from Costa Vida Vallarta) and then split cabs for the trip to the Marina. I had told a couple named Ron and Barb (from Washington) that because they were the first to respond to the note I posted, that we would give them a ride to the Marina in our VW. Amazingly, at 9:00 a.m. all nine people that were going with us showed up in the lobby, and we all headed for the marina. Once at the Marina I collected money from everyone and paid the charter office. They told us that the boat was on its way and should arrive mometarily. Sure enough, it came into port no later than 10:15 a.m.. We loaded ourselves and our paraphenalia onto the boat and were off. Rather then bore you will all the details, let me summarize the day by saying, whales, dolphins, turtles, birds, and fish — we saw them all !! At first we only saw Porpoises, but after we were out in the bay for about 30 minutes, one of the crew called on the radio and heard from other boats that there were about ten whales cavorting on the south side of the bay — we could see the boats in that area and headed obver that way. For lunch we stopped in Quimixto, and had a choice of a few things on the menu. Though the bar on the boat was open, noone overly imbibed. The water’s were calm enough so that no one got sick ( a few of us had taken dramamine) . The main negative aspect of the boat that we were on was that it was not fast, at all. Though we did see whales, we saw that other boats in the Bay were able to keep up with the whales by nimbly flying across the water to where they had next surfaced, in our case most of the whales we saw we saw by luck rather than skill. Though the boat did have a "head," one had to practically crawl to get into it (actually — I think the word "practically" could be left out of that statement) because the "ceiling" down below was so low. After lunch we headed back along the shoreline where we had good views of La Jolla Mismaloya (where four of our group departed because they had to meet some other people for early dinner) , Le Kliff, the Bungee Jump, and the hotels along the way. We then headed over to Los Arcos and tied up to an anchor point . Looking down in the water we saw many colorful fish surrouding the boat. Some of the group went snorkeling, and others fed the fish with chocolate chip cookies. We stayed there for about an hour, and then proceeded back to the marina while hugging the south shore of the bay. We also saw a couple more whales that were surprisingly close to the Los Muertos Beach area. Pictures taken during the trip are here: http://www.lilaw.info/whale_watching_!!.htm We got back to the Marina at about 6:30 p.m. and parted ways with most of the group; however, we invited Sue, Ron and Barb to take a ride with us up to Punta Mita to eat at El Dorado’s , and they all accepted. When we walked back to our car (which I had left parked under a tree) it was covered with bird crap — what a sight !! I am glad there was fluid in the windshield washers so I could clear off the windshield. We got there at about 7:50 p.m. (they close at 8:00 p.m.) and were basically the only people in the restaurant (though a few people were eating at tables on the beach). Once that we had decided to have separate checks, I felt free to order what I wanted, and went for the grilled lobster, while my wife ordered her favorite (the octopus). The owner of El Dorado (Hector) is a very very nice, and friendly person; he remembered us from when we ate there a few times in November. He tries to please the customer any way he can, and the kitchen will make just about anything you want, whether it is on the menu or not. I had ( in the back of my mind) thought that maybe we could stop at Dugarel Plays in Bucerias for a nightcap after dinner, but we didn’t get finished with the meal until nearly 11:00 p.m., and were all kind of bushed. We headed back to Nuevo Vallarta to take Sue to her newly purchased condo, and get the Nickel tour. She has a one bedroom condo in the Paradise Village complex. The building amenities are still being added, and it looks like it will be a great place to spend some time. We were glad that Susan was able to purchase something that would give her enjoyment in the future. Tuesday was definitely OVER , so we headed back to Costa Vida Vallarta and collapsed for the night. Well, along came Wednesday .... the IFC (International Friendship Club — SEE: http://www.pvmexico.com/ ) runs home tours on Weds. and Thursday mornings from approximately Mid November into the late winter/early spring. To go on a tour one has to merely show up at the Agua Molina Hotel at 10:00 a.m. on a Weds. or Thursday. Just walk in the front gate and there will be people there to meet and direct you. The cost of $25.00 includes transportation (ours was by AC’d bus, but there are some that are not AC’d) to four "WOW" homes in the immediate PV area. There were at least 40 people on the tour we went on, and we saw two really really "WOW" homes and two other large, and beautiful homes. The same homes are used on all tours in any given week, but they do have a "bank" of about 50 (?) homes that the owners let them use. Touring the homes is a very "free" experience — you can basically go anywhere in the home you would like, and take all the pictures you want as well. We spent about 3 hours on the tour and were returned to the Agua Molina Hotel at about 3:00 in the afternoon. We spent a little time after that shopping in the downtown area, then proceeded to PV NET. This was our first time there, and we were impressed with the set-up. There are about 45 computers set up, all with cable access. One pays at the front desk, upfront, for time. The minimum time is (we were told) 20 pesos for one hour — HOWEVER - we paid the 20 pesos and got two hours of access. This happened twice, so I guess the person working the front counter did not know that the 20 pesos bought two hours of time. Once one pays one gets an ID # and using this ID #one can sign onto any computer in the place. Once signed on, one creates his/her own password and then the computer keeps track of how much time has been used. The time does not have to be used consecutively. One can leave and come back another day, the the computer you are using will then tell you how much time you have left. Our experience at PVNET, with the pleasant surroundings, air conditioning, and clean rest rooms, was very positive. I would highly recommend it. IF a person brings their own laptop the price gets even more reasonable to go on line (I recall the price as about $15.00 for a week of access). Pictures of PVNET are here: http://www.s2ki.com/imagecatalog/image/list/3891 After leaving PV net we were starving, so we headed up to a restaurant I had read about on line which was in the small town of La Cruz De Huanacaxtle, which is about 2/3rds of the way to Punta Mita from PV . The name of the restaurant was Papasito’s . We got into town and navigated our way up and down the dusty streets looking for the place, finally we asked some people — who directed us towards the town square — we drove past the town square and some other people directed us back from where we had just come — we did the yoyo thing a couple more times — till we found it — closed. Though there were a couple of other interesting restaurants there in the town we decided to head back into PV proper and eat at El Palomar d los González. We got on the main road and headed south. The speed limit along there varies between 50 - 80 KM per hour (all of which is fairly slow — 100 KM per hour is 60 MPH) . There are a lot of trucks that drive that road and I did not realize the thought of getting wiped out in my little VW bug — so we were traveling at about 100 KM per hour (as were many other drivers). We got pulled over by a Federali . As I was getting pulled over, realizing that I did not have my wallet or passport with me (though I did have lots of money) - I said to my wife , "Hey hon — I might be going to jail !!" .He was alone, we stayed in our car and rolled down the window. When he got to the window I said "hello good evening" he he spoke in Spanish and said " Do you speak Spanish ?" I said "not really" — he then said in english "Well we have a problem because I do not speak english." My Spanish got pretty good then. From then on we both only spoke Spanish. I asked him what he wanted - he said he wanted my license and the papers on the car. I told him that I left my wallet in the hotel - and told him where we were staying. Meanwhile my wife was looking through the papers in her LARGE pocketbook for the car rental papers. The police officer said that he had to think of what he was going to do - and went to the back of the car. For some reason he opened the engine compartment in the back of the car (I thought that maybe he was disabling the engine by pulling a coil wire — but he didn’t) and then shut it after about 20 seconds. My wife then found the car rental papers and I got out the car with the papers in my hand saying "I have the papers I have the papers." He was glad to see that, and told me that he intended to write out two tickets for me, one for not having a license and one for speeding. I asked him what I had to do with the tickets. He told me that I would have to see a Judge. I asked him what the Judge would do — he said that the Judge would impose a fine, I asked him how much - he told me it would be about 300 pesos for not having a license and 200 pesos for speeding. I said, quietly, that this was very very bad. I then asked him if I could just pay the fines then and there. He told me that only the Judge could give a receipt. I asked him if a receipt was important ? He said "Is a receipt important to you? " I told him "no" .... and then he said that I could just pay the fine right then and there. I gave him a 500 peso bill . He had me PRINT my name next to an entry he had made in a log book. We went on our way, 12 minutes later and a little less than $50.00 poorer. He followed us for about 3 miles, then did a "U" turn. We continued to make our way to El Palomar d los González. It is a restaurant overlooking the southern part of PV — we had long heard of this place and figured we would try something new. The road to get to it was steep, but short — nothing like Carmelitas !! Once there we were seated at once - at a table for two. We reviewed the menu and I placed an order for mussels as an appetizer. The cost was about $8.50 for the mussels appetizer. To our amazement, the order consisted of on eight (really) mussels, arranged in a circle around the outside of a small plate. That was it, eight mussels !!! Here in NY one can get a whole steamer full of mussels for $8.50. For New Years Eve I bought (lobsters and) about 4 pounds of mussels for less than $3.00 a pound. Here in NY $3.00 buys a heck of a lot of mussels !! So we really could not believe it when they only brought 8 mussels. We had our meals and when the matre di came around to ask how everything was, I told him that frankly, the mussels portion had been ridiculously small, consisting of only 8 mussels. He commented that usually the plate is 15 mussels (which is still significantly less than one would get here in NY for the same amount of money) and had 7 more mussels sent to us. The meals themselves were NOT inspirational or memorable at all (I can not even remember what I had) and the portions were small overall. We left there with no desire to ever return. Incidentally, that night there was a very very visible, large ring around the moon — I tried to take a photo of it - but it was too big to fit into one picture — anyone else remember looking up at the moon on Wednesday, February 12th, 2003, and seeing a huge ring around it ?? We got back into the VW and headed back to the Costa Vida Vallarta. Tomorrow (Thursday) was to be our check out day from Costa Vida and move into Viva Vallarta day. We watched a movie in bed in the hotel, and enjoyed our last night at Costa Vida with the waves pounding in the background all night. Thursday: We had stayed at Viva Vallarta for one night in November, 2002. It was the last night of an 8 night stay in PV, and originally we had plans to stay at Blue Bay getaway for that last night — but after Hurricane Kenna, Blue Bay was closed, so we were able to move over to Viva Vallarta for one night. We had liked the property, but did not have much of a chance to live with the food (only one day) when we had stayed there in November. What we did notice about the room, when we stayed there in November, was that due to the stone floors, with no carpeting, we could hear people walking and moving furniture in the room above us. In November, 2002, we had gone around the resort writing down room numbers of rooms that we might like to stay in when we returned in February. We chose rooms on the top floor of the building facing the "Relaxo Pool (an adult’s only pool in the sourthern portion of the resort)" . I go up early and went out to a pay phone and picked-up/returned messages. I used a phone on the road a little south of Costa Vida Vallarta. We had bought few bottles of booze (vodka, rum, etc.) for in-room drinks while at Costa Vida, and because we were moving to an all inclusive I did not figure we would have any use for them . I drove to the Bungee Jump to drop off the unused booze there for Federico or his employees. The "office" at the Bungee was open, and an employee was there, but Federico had not yet arrived. I noticed that they had a hose and a rag there, and asked if I could wash all the bird stuff off the car — the employee agreed, and I washed the dirty VW . While I was doing that, Federico arrived at the Bungee jump and I spent a few minutes with him while he explained some of his future plans for expansion, as well as some of the major modifications he had made recently on the suspension systems of the cars he uses for Raptor tours. After that I headed back to the hotel, we loaded everything into the VW (filling up the rear seat to the brim), and we were off to Viva Vallarta. Let me preface the following couple of pages by saying that the property at Viva Vallarta is beautiful and well designed. The resort has been built into the hillside so that he pools and walkways blend very well with the land. The beach is nice, and the resort’s location to Punta Mita is convenient in the event that one would like to get away from Viva for a regular restaurant meal. There is bus transportation available where the entrance road to the hotel meets the road, and on the ride INTO town one can usually get a seat because the "beginning" of the line is Punta Mita — only a few miles before Viva Vallarta. I mentioned that we had made a list of the rooms that we would prefer to stay in when we went to Viva Vallarta in November. We had also asked at Viva Vallarta what we had to do to request a spcific room, and they told us to e-mail them a few weeks before we came to the resort. What I had done after that was to write to the corporate headquarters of Viva Vallarta to request one of several specific rooms, this is what I had sent by e-mail: Enviado el Sunday, January 05, 2003 1058 PM Para Club Viva Vallarta Asunto Room Request, Confirmation # 70683.100 Hello, my name is Eliot _______. I am scheduled to arrive there on February 13th, 2003 for a stay of seven nights. When we last stayed there we were told that we could request, in advance, to be placed in a particular room. We would like to have a king sized bed in one of the following rooms (we are not sure which of the following rooms have king sized beds) (these are our first choice, a king sized bed in one the following rooms) 1302, 1304,1306,1308,1310,1312,1314,1316,1318.1320,1322,1324,1326,1328,1330,1332, or 1334 (the following are our second choice of rooms, a king sized bed in one the following rooms )ANY EVEN NUMBERED ROOM -- FROM 1204 - 1218. (The following are our third choice of rooms, a king sized bed in one the following rooms ) any ODD numbered room from 1303 - 1335 (the following are our fourth choice of rooms, a king sized bed in one the following rooms)any ODD numbered room from 1205 - 1217. Thank-you for your assistance. Sincerely,
This is what I was sent back: DateMon, 06 Jan 2003 092733 -0600 FromAdriana Gutierrez <Adriana@MEXICO.VivaResorts.com> SubjectRERoom Request, Confirmation # X-MailerInternet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19)
Actually we had a remodelation at the hotel and some rooms had changes so I know you want to stay at king size bed room, maybe we can offer you the area of the relax pool because on this building we have our king size bed inventory. Please let me know if you preffer stay at this area. thank you. And this is what I replied: Enviado el Monday, January 06, 2003 1232 PM Para Adriana Gutierrez Asunto RERoom Request Dear Ms. Gutierrez Thank-you for the response. We were hoping to stay in a room on a top floor - so that we do not have anyone on top of us - so that it will be quiet. Whether it is a king or a queen bed is not that important (of course we would prefer a king bed) . We do not want to face the activity pool. A room in the area of the relax pool would be very good - do you have any on the top floor ? We would like a room that will be as quiet as possible - one that is not near a lot of activity. I do appreciate that you responded so quickly to my note, please let me know what you come up with. Eliot And this was the final communication: DateMon, 06 Jan 2003 154222 -0600 FromAdriana Gutierrez <Adriana@MEXICO.VivaResorts.com> SubjectRERoom Request, X-MailerInternet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) Ok thank you your request is now into our system top floor in the first building close to the relax pool So you woulda thunk that when we arrived at Viva Vallarta that we would have had one of the rooms we requested, right ? Nope. We pulled into Viva Vallarta thinking that everything would be all set and were informed that they did not have any rooms in the building we wanted, on the top floor with king or queen beds - they only had one room on the top floor- in that building, that that had two double beds. Further, they told us that that room would be $25.00 extra a day. We were also told that if we wanted a room on the top floor with a king sized bed, we could have it - but it was on the opposite side of the resort than where we wanted to be. I asked to see both of the rooms. The rooms have NO furniture in them, so I decided that I might just as well take the room with two double beds because it was in the location we wanted to be at, and we could use the second bed as a large shelf for our clothes. HOWEVER, I did not intend to pay $25.00 extra a day for the room. When we returned to the front desk I pointed out that the main office had not only told me they had a room for me that I had requested, but also had said nothing about it costing any additional monies. At that point they agreed to NOT charge anything extra for the room, if we agreed to take room 1308 at that time (which was one of the rooms I had requested). WE moved into the room for the week, and had no real complaints about it. There were, however, some pains about the place. It was impossible to have a nice shower because 1) the shower head was too low for me (it was about right for my 5’tall wife) and I had to bend way down to get under it, 2) the water temp. in the shower would constantly change in huge amounts, from hot to cold, so that I had to hold a washcloth in my hand at all times to be prepared to shield myself from the scalding water when it would suddenly start to flow, I would say that the water went from warm to scalding on the average of 3 - 4 times in the course of a 5 minute shower and 3) the water pressure was pathetic. I adjusted the direction of the vents of the central AC so that the breeze did not blow on us while we slept. The main problems with Viva Vallarta (and why we would not return) are as follows: the food was just plain terrible. Some details: watery watery oatmeal and soups, meats so tough one could literally not cut, much less chew them, good looking but tasteless desserts, over cooked meats, fish cut so thin that when it was cooked it was more like a potato chip. The best meal seemed to have been breakfast — when one could get any type of eggs cooked to order (though they did have pancakes and waffles — the holder for them did not keep them warm, and the "maple" syrup was "karo" syrup — which as about as low quality and taste a syrup as one can find, anywhere) . The waiters tried to be attentive - no complaints there (even though the meals were buffet the waiters still brought beverages if asked and cleared plates as the meal progressed). There are now three "reservations only" restaurants at Viva Vallarta which are the Mexican, Italian, and Pizza restaurants. You have to make reservations the day before you want to go to one of the restaurants, and can only eat at each one once in the course of a week’s stay. We had tried the Mexican restaurant in November and were not impressed, so we did not bother going back. We did try the Italian restaurant this time and the food/service/atmosphere was pretty decent. I have to mention the snack bar near the activity pool, which is open during the day for drinks and lunch. I found the tuna salad, hamburgers, french fires and guacamole there to be fairly good. The fact that the ketchup was only in small packets was a little frustrating. I think I opened about 12 of those packets to get enough ketchup on my french fry plate, and still needed more !!! An additional thought that one should bear in mind is that at Viva Vallarta there are no elevators — the third floor means that you will be walking up and down three flights of stairs to go to/from your room. Pity the poor bellhops who lug everything up and down those stairs !!! OK — it is still Thursday, and we just checked into Viva Vallarta. We unpacked and headed off to lunch. Later we made our way down to the pool for a while to spend time reading/sunning. There is a show every night at Viva Vallarta. The shows are fairly lavish as hotel shows go, and include mucho lip syncing, costumes, and lighting. Before every show, there is a little kids show; which the parents of the kids seem to appreciate, but everyone else can not stand. We went to the show on Thursday night , and enjoyed it, but not enough to return to other shows on other nights. We got to bed at about 1:00 a.m.. but were woken a couple of times by kids screaming in the hall and loud drunk adults on their way back to their rooms. FRIDAY !!! It was Valentine’s Day. We started the day with a few hours of sunbathing by the "Relaxo Pool" . Unfortunately I did not have anything special planned, so I thought it might be nice to have massages. We have tried three different massage environments - Terra Noble, Shianti, and Venus. Of the three we prefer Venus, and thus headed that way. We got there at about 2:15 and each booked a two hour block of time for 3:30 p.m.. I was to have a two hour massage and my wife was to have a one hour massage and a 55 minute facial. To get ourselves "in the mood" to relax, we then went around the corner to a small hole in the wall called "Cactus" . They had a two for one deal until 3:00 p.m. — we each had a total of four drinks, and then headed back to Venus. The treatments were great !! I was in another world for two hours, and I think that is about as long a massage as I would want to have !! We had not yet returned our rental car, but we were not looking forwards to being "carless" . There was a Dollar car rental desk there at Viva Vallarta, and we had stopped there to inquire as to the cost of renting a car. We were told $60.00 a day (which included tax and insurance) ; which seemed high to us. After the massage, we stopped at PVNET and went on line to the Dollar car rental website. I made reservations to pick-up a car on Tuesday and drop it off on Thursday. This way we would have transportation to the AOL get together on Wednesday night, and could drive ourselves to the airport on Thursday . The total cost of of the car rental, including insurance and tax, for the two days came to $72.00 . After we left PV net we headed back to Viva Vallarta for dinner, beverages, and bed. Saturday morning !!! I started the day with breakfast followed by some time at the pool, then the time had come to return the rental car (weep weep) ... I headed downtown, stopping along the way to pick up messages/ return phone calls. I parked the V.W. in the vacant spot at the Dollar parking lot area next to the airport parking lot, and went into the terminal. I saw that the bank was still open and waited on the line to change some money. The line was about 20 minutes long, but when I got to the front they told me that I could only change $200.00 because they were running out of pesos. I returned the car, and exited the north door of the airport, walked over the foot bridge and caught a bus north back to Viva Vallarta for a ridiculously low price. At first I did not have a seat, but about 1/2 of the way back the bus started to empty out, and was able to sit down. There were several Viva Vallarta employees on the bus. I noticed that part of the reason some people had no seat is because some of the passengers with seats were using the seat next to them to place packages/shopping bags on. The trip back took about 45 minutes, and even though the bus was not a/c’d, it was cool enough with the windows open. We spent the rest of the day/eve sunning, napping, exploring the resort, and eating. Sunday: Was a simple day. We had no car and we spent the day at the resort. I visited the gym and worked out. The gym is a large room, and consists mainly of free weights, with a few weight machines, but not of the multi-station type. The machines are the type that you have to load the weight plates onto yourself to use. There were two exercise bicycles, and one treadmill. After the gym we spent the afternoon reading by the pool. We stopped at the Dollar car rental desk in the Viva Vallarta lobby and asked if the rental car we were picking up on Tuesday could be picked up there at the hotel, and if we could then return it to the airport. To our pleasant surprise they were most accommodating and indicated that there would be no additional charge for this service.
On Sunday night we had reservations to eat at the Italian restaurant at Viva Vallarta called Portofino. We had made the reservations the day before. Our overall experience there was good, I had the cold seafood appetizer and beef as an entree. My wife had a salad and fish as an entree. The food was the best we had at that resort, and showed that they could make edible food there. Back at the room we watched some TV and got a good night’s sleep. Monday Monday: Was a simple, very pleasant day filled with sun, whales in view in the bay, and drinks. We took naps in the afternoon and had a late dinner. During the course of the day I stopped at the Dollar car rental desk and confirmed that we would have the car delivered to us there the next day. It was a good thing that I did because the arrangements to do so had not been made. Tuesday: We spent the morning at the pool and then at about 1:00 p.m. I went to pick up the rental car . I was told that it was on its way — it arrived about 15 minutes later and was a small Chevrolet Monza that had seen several too many potholes. It did run, and we figured we only needed it for a couple of days, so I accepted it. We headed downtown, back to Venus massages for another two hour massage- when we got there we found that our favorite masseuses were busy and we would not be free until 5:30 p.m. — so we made appointments for that time. Jackie was having some Dental problems, so we took a drive into town to the Dentist at the Marina Plaza . When we got there we found that they were closed till 4:00 p.m., so we wondered through the plaza and found a coffee shop where we sat and chatted for a while. We were done with the Dentist by 4:20. We then headed back into town and parked near "Venus" we walked around the corner, and headed back to "Cactus" bar on Ignacio L. Vallarta. We ordered a few drinks so as to attain an appropriate level of relaxation for the two hour massages. While sitting there I overheard the bartender (a girl in her early 20’s) talking on the phone and telling someone that she had been really feeling lousy for a couple of days, but that she was taking medication which should make her feel better. After she got off the phone I engaged her in conversation and she told me that she had "Amoebas" . I almost broke out laughing, as I had never heard anything like this before, to me it initially sounded like a bogus or imagined illness. I asked her to write down the medication she was taking, and she did. I told her that I was going to check to see if the medication was appropriate for "amoebas" . After this conversation and a couple more drinks we had reached a state of mind appropriate for a two hour massage, and headed back to Venus. The massages were indeed heavenly (though I think I feel asleep for a while) . I would have to say that of the things we miss about Vallarta, the two hour massages at Venus rank right up there. After the massages we headed back to Viva Vallarta for dinner and an evening stroll around the grounds before retiring early.
Wednesday: We slept a little late, but still caught breakfast. After breakfast I went to the gym and Jackie went to the pool. I later joined her at the pool and finished the second book I read over the vacation (The first was the latest Harry Potter book, and the second was a John Saunders novel). We took afternoon naps, showered and dressed for the AOL get together scheduled for 6:00 p.m. at Daiquiri Dicks. For any of those reading this who do no know what an AOL get together is, let me explain. AOL (America On Line) has an area in its travel section called "message boards" which are broken up by areas of the world. There are regular posters to these boards. Now and then the regular posters who will be in PV at the same time make plans to "get together" . For this particular get together 14 people had indicated their interest in attending. On the way to Daiquiri Dicks we stopped at a Doctors office located in the southern part of old town in a medical center. We inquired as to the Amoeba condition described to us by the bartender at the Bar Cactus. Much to our surprise he confirmed that many people not born in PV do become infected by "bad" Amoebas when they live there for a while. He said that some people take medication every six months to purge the bad Amoebas from their bodies . He said that this condition is not unique to Puerto Vallarta, and can take place in many other locations in the world as well. He described some of the symptoms of "bad" Amoebas - bloating, erratic but frequent lower tract problems, frequent gurgling of the digestive system, and other things which I will not write in this report. I asked him what medication should be taken to cure the Amoeba infestation. He said "Flagyl" (which is also known as metronidazole). I showed him the names of the medications that the bartender at Cactus had been taking and he told me that though those medications might treat the symptoms, they would not sure the cause of the symptoms. We arrived at Daiquiri Dicks at about 5:30 p.m. — and were the first of the group to arrive. We sat and waited at an outdoor table set for 14 people. At 6:00, and shortly thereafter, five other AOL board posters arrived; the remaining other seven people never showed. Jackie and I ordered meals and drinks, the drinks that came were overpriced and undersized. For $4.50 I got a drink no bigger than a cup. I noticed that several other tables had large drinks (the small goldfish tank sized glasses) on them and asked why our drinks were so small compared to the other drinks. I was told that those people had ordered doubles. It was, and still is, hard for me to believe that everyone else there had ordered double drinks and paid $9.00 for one drink !! This was P.V., right ?? Not New York City !! Further, the waiter had not even asked us if we wanted to order a "double" sized drink !!! I ordered what is billed as a signature dish of Daiguiri Dicks, the Lobster Tacos. They were disappointing to say the least. Any flavor in the lobster was eclipsed by a very strong vinegar based sauce on the lobster meat. We left the AOL get together at about 7:30 p.m., we then headed back to Viva Vallarta where we topped off the lousy dinner we had a Daiquiri Dicks with another lousy dinner from Viva Vallarta. We then did most of our packing for the next day’s departure and went to sleep. THURSDAY: I often draw comparisons between a vacation and life. The way at the beginning of life a person might look ahead to all the years they have left, and at the end look back and say, "where did it all go ? and so fast too ?" Well it was our departure day and the time had slipped by. We ate breakfast, finished packing, settled our account at the front desk, and had a bell boy take our luggage down the flights of stairs and bring them to the front of the resort. As usual, all our valuables were in our pockets and carry-ons, which we kept with us at all times. We tried to grab a frozen coffee mixture from the coffee bar, but, once again, like most of the week, the dispensers had not yet frozen their product, so we headed for the airport. Once there, while Jackie waited at the Continental check-in counter with the luggage, I went around the corner to change more dollars to pesos at the Bital Bank in anticipation of our next return to PV. Everyone’s checked luggage gets scrutinized at the check-in counter’s in PV . The process goes fairly quickly, but I am glad that we were first on line. While at the airport I dug out the phone number of the Cactus Bar (we had it on a receipt from when we had bought drinks there), where the young lady with the Amoeba problem worked — I called there and told her that we had seen a doctor and that the medication she was taking (she had not been to a Doctor and the medication she was taking had been suggested to her by a customer at the bar) would only mask the symptoms, not cure the problem with an amoeba infestation. I gave her the name of the medication the Doctor had indicated, and suggested she should see a Doctor. After checking in we took our carry-on luggage and strolled X the pedestrian bridge to the other side of the highway so as to eat at Isla Maria. We had eaten there before and were fairly satisfied. We ordered appetizers. My wife ordered shrimp and avocado salad and I ordered a seafood burrito. When the appetizers came we realized that we really did not have to order main courses (I had ordered shrimp fajitas and Jackie had ordered Octopus grilled with butter and garlic). To say that we were stuffed when we left there would be a major understatement. We were flying from PV to Houston and in Houston we only had an hour to go through immigration, collect our luggage, go through customs, recheck our luggage, and make our way to our connecting flight’s gate. We ran into various small delays that ate up all the time we had left. The plane left PV about 15 minutes late, immigration had long lines, and our luggage was not amongest the early ones off the plane. By the time we got our luggage it was only 15 minutes till the scheduled departure of our connecting flight — but we figured we would make it there easily. We were rolling the luggage cart towards the place where we would recheck the luggage, when the group of people we were walking with came to a halt. Up ahead we saw someone checking identification. He seemed to be an airport employee. This took an additional 5 minutes. We got past him and placed our checked luggage on the belt for it to be re-checked, and thought that we could finally head for the gate (as the departure time had just about arrived) when we came across yet another security check-point. We had to put our carry-ons through a machine and then go through metal detectors. I had gone through the metal detector just fine in PV, so I figured there would be no problem, until the buzzer went off. I then realized that I had gotten change in pesos at the duty-free at the PV airport — this change had to be what set off the detector. I offered to take the change out of my pocket, but was responded to in a surly tone, as if I had done something wrong, that I had had my chance, and was now about to be thoroughly searched. I ended up doing the whole detailed search procedure - including my shoes and wallet (every compartment) and looked at my watch in frustration. I thought it was ironic that, in the name of U.S. security, I, a U.S. citizen, with a valid passport, wearing a shirt with a large American flag on it, was being hasseled by a man with a foreign accent, who had probably not even been born in the United States, because I had some Mexican pesos in my pocket. When he told me to put out my arms spread eagle so that he could run the metal detector around me I almost hit him in the face (accidentally) because he was walking to my left side as he told me to put my arms out. When we got through with that procedure we still had to get from the "C" terminal area to the end of the hall of the "D" terminal area to try to catch our connecting flight. We passed a TV monitor board that said our connecting flight was on time. It was NOW departure time, we ran/fast walked through the mob dragging our carryon luggage behind us and knocking into many people on the way. On the moving walkways we yelled at people who were standing in the middle of the walk -way and not moving to "stand right, walk left" as we barreled up behind them; if they didn’t move we squeezed to their left and proceeded on our way. I was significantly ahead of Jackie at this point and saw the gate ahead - I also saw that there was no one boarding anymore and that the door to the jetway was closed. I rushed ahead and when I got close to the gate tried to yell "please hold the plane " but could not speak because I was so out of breath and my throat was so dry. I finally got to the counter and between gulps of air managed to say — "is it too late, can we still board ?" The person behind the counter looked a me in a strange way and said "the plane has not started boarding yet, it is running about 45 minutes late." I almost flipped, and just loudly said "why don’t you tell anyone these things" a couple of times. I went over and looked at the video monitors and saw that the flight was still listed as "on time". We used our waiting time to have a cold shake, and to call our car service in NY to arrange to be picked up. The plane did eventually depart from the gate about an hour late, then sat on the runway for a long time . We had been scheduled to arrive in NY at 11:10 p.m., but arrived at 12:30 a.m. instead. We got home and to bed by 3:00 a.m. and I got up at 5:30 a.m. to head back to work.
In retrospect I would return to Costa Vida Vallarta (though my first choice in PV is the Westin), but would never return to Viva Vallarta, unless I had some significant assurances that the food was vastly improved. I am still unable to understand what appeared to be an intentional effort to make everything taste lousy. I really don’t think the lousy food resulted in less overall food consumption by the guests because it only made a person try different foods to see if there was anything there that might taste good. If it wasn’t for the cold cereals, chicken, tuna fish salad, hamburgers, guacamole, and french fries — I am really not sure what I would have eaten all week. The major stress we went through coming back in Houston stands out in my mind more than the vacation. If we had a longer lay-over in Houston, or if I did not absolutely have to be at work the next day, then I would have much better memories of the vacation. Lesson learned (I hope) for future travels. Eliot |
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